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Welcome to Northeastern
Washington. Some call the area "The Forgotten Corner" of Washington State
because so much attention is paid to the west side of the state -- "The
Wet Side," as we like to call it -- that people tend to overlook the less
populated northeastern region. Some like it that way, since the undiscovered
country offers much for outdoor adventurers of just about any persuasion
and for families on vacation -- without the crowds! The region between
Spokane and the Canadian border is a place of mountains, lakes and rivers
with a wealth of human history, geologic complexity, and scenic wonder.
Take the Kettle Falls for example. The Columbia River, the mightiest river
in the Pacific Northwest, runs sixty miles south from the Canadian border
before sweeping westward at the confluence of the Spokane River. Along
the way it carves into the landscape broad valleys and deep canyons. Midway
on its run to the Spokane River, the great river cascades over a series
of spectacular falls. Here, hard layers of quartzite jut up through the
softer rock to form a toothy barrier that has stubbornly resisted the
erosion of the cold water for tens of thousands of years. This is what
formed the great Kettle Falls, a series of spectacular cascades just west
of the town of Kettle Falls.
For nearly 10,000 years, the Native People of the region fished for salmon
at the Kettle Falls, which provided their major food source and formed
the centerpiece of their life ways. Twice a year during the big salmon
runs, tribes from all over the region gathered at the Kettle Falls to
fish, feast and celebrate, generation after generation, in a yearly cycle
which the Colville Confederated Tribes commemorate today during their
annual powwow on the bench overlooking the falls.
During the Fur Trade Era of the early 1800s, the early trappers and traders
came to the Kettle Falls in search of beaver and other furs. The earliest
European visitors included David Thompson, the first European explorer
to map the entire length of the Columbia. It was the early trappers who
gave the falls their current name. They noticed that the powerful currents
of the river worked the stones trapped in pockets of bedrock around and
around until they ground smooth kettle-shaped basins below the falls.
Fur traders eventually built Fort Colvile in 1825 on the flats east of
the river. Named for one of the Scottish financiers of the Hudson Bay
Company, who never actually visited the area, Fort Colvile with a revised
spelling lent its name to the Colville River, the City of Colville, and
the Colville Indians, known as Swhy-ayl-puh in their own language. Behind
the fur traders came the Black Robes, Catholic priests who worked their
way west to convert the Indians to Christianity in the years before the
Civil War. The first church in the region, St. Paul's Mission, now restored,
still stands today on the bench overlooking the site of old Fort Colvile
and the Kettle Falls, just east of the river.
Following the fur traders and the Black Robes came the miners after the
Civil War when gold and silver was discovered upriver from the Kettle
Falls. Behind them came the settlers who farmed, ranched and harvested
the lush timber, transforming Northeastern Washington into what we see
today. One of the biggest changes to the landscape came with Grand Coulee
Dam, built in the 1930s as a public works project to help lift the Pacific
Northwest out of The Depression. Once the dam was finished in 1942, the
waters backed up behind the dam until they silenced the Kettle Falls and
brought the mighty salmon runs to an end, at least for now. During the
spring drawdown, however, sometimes the water level is low enough to reveal
the head of the great falls. Then, members of the Colville Confederated
Tribes pitch their teepees on Hayes Island overlooking the Kettle Falls
to commemorate the days of the great salmon runs when the river ran free.
Then, too, you can see the outlines of old Fort Colvile on the sand flats
east of the river. Grand Coulee Dam provides irrigation, flood control,
and massive amounts of electricity for the Inland Northwest. With its
600 miles of shoreline, the reservoir behind it, called Lake Roosevelt
after the president who orchestrated the project, becomes a recreation
playground for boating, water skiing, fishing and camping today.
So, this one locale, besides being a great place to picnic and boat and
fish, tells the story of the rich natural history -- and human history
-- of Northeastern Washington. But the Kettle Falls isn't the only place
to do that. Whether you dig in the fossil beds of Republic, horseback
ride the Kettle Crest, boat Lake Roosevelt, ski at 49 Degrees North, or
backpack in the Salmo-Priest Wilderness Area, you're in the midst of a
region of great natural beauty, rich human history, and geologic wonder.
The only thing missing is the crowd!
Photo: Lake Roosevelt Sunset, courtesy of Sharon Engstrom.
Welcome to NortheasternWashington.com
A project of The North Columbia Monthly
PO Box 541, Colville, WA 99114
Ph/fx: 509/684-3109
Web site: www.northcolumbiamonthly.com
E-mail: info@northcolumbiamonthly.com
All rights reserved. Copyright
2008-2010.
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