Four seasons of family-friendly fun... without the crowds!
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Sea Kayaking the Pend Oreille River to Boundary Dam We think of Northeastern Washington as "The Forgotten Corner" precisely because of local gems like the Pend Oreille River and Boundary Dam in Pend Oreille County. The Pend Oreille River begins in Northern Idaho as the outlet of Lake Pend Oreille, and flows northwest to cross into Washington at Newport, where it then cuts north and heads for the Canadian border, flowing through some of the prettiest country in the eastern half of Washington State. Providing a home for waterfowl, eagles and ospreys, and a great place for bass and trout fishing, it's a popular river for recreation year around. As it nears the border it passes through country ever more wild and beautiful. The stretch from Metaline Falls on to Boundary Dam, the part that concerns us here, snakes through a narrow, forested canyon and offers spectacular views of waterfalls, fir and cedar forests, wildlife and birds, and historic mines. People with powerboats can put in at Boundary Dam and boat upriver, or at the public launch Metaline and boat down river. There is fishing all along the route and room for water skiing at Boundary Dam. But a great way to enjoy this splendid country is to glide through it quietly in a canoe or sea kayak. Human-powered travel always allows the traveler to get better acquainted with the country and improves the chances to see more wildlife. For guided sea kayak tours, check with DeLane Cates at Boundary Tours. For a very modest price, DeLane will rent you a beautiful, hand-crafted sea kayak, provide a training session, and guide you through one of the nicest, least-traveled river runs in the state. A good day trip begins at the town of Metaline Falls and an exciting rush though the turbulence of the falls, which give the town its name. The Metaline Falls can be more than a bit tricky for watercraft of any size, though they're not "falls" of the Niagara variety, more of a foamy romp down turbulent stairs. On this section of the Pend Oreille River, water levels can change rapidly throughout the day as the flow through Boundary Dam is regulated to produce electricity for the city of Seattle. At times the Metaline Falls, just down river from the put-in, are no more than a stretch of swift water, at times Class 3, 4 or even 5 rapids, depending on flows. During the greatest turbulence, power boats coming upriver from Boundary Dam sometimes cannot get past these falls due to the powerful current, and paddlers coming down river can easily swamp their boats in the chaotic hydraulics. Paddlers should scout the river carefully and be prepared to portage around the falls in rough water. Here's where a good guide comes in handy, as DeLane knows how to get through the narrow gorge when the water's safe, and when and how to portage when its not. In very rough water, he avoids the falls altogether by driving to another put-in just downstream from the turbulence. 
Once past the Metaline Falls, the river calms down, so boaters can enjoy some easy flat-water paddling, helped along by a leisurely current. The excitement of river running gives way to the enjoyment of one of the nicest places in the state. The steep canyon is home to deer, moose, elk and bear. DeLane describes watching osprey dive for fish, often splashing down near the boats on his tours. In places, cliffs tower above the water and there is a rock arch and small caves to paddle into, depending on the water level. The river glides past old mines dating back to the gold rush during the late 1800's. With very limited access to the river in this remote canyon, and few boaters, DeLane says that often they see few or no other people, especially early in the season. Several waterfalls cascade down the canyons from the mountains above. At one point on the river, boaters can see two waterfalls, one on either side of the river. The biggest waterfall is PeeWee near the end of the trip, where boaters can paddle up near the base of the falls (though stay well back due to falling rock). Wildflowers abound in the area, and late season travelers can enjoy the fall colors as the tamarack and birch trees turn with the changing of the seasons. If you're on a schedule, you can paddle the entire 12-mile route in three or four hours, but DeLane recommends a leisurely trip. His Boundary Tour trips include a picnic lunch and breaks to stretch and explore the canyon on foot. There are several spots to camp if you are equipped for primitive camping -- there are no developed campsites along this route. Once past PeeWee Falls, the final leg of the journey is the paddle to the take-out at Boundary Dam and the shuttle back to Metaline Falls, concluding a trip sometimes exciting, sometimes relaxing, sometimes educational, and always spectacular. H Boundary Tours: Boundary Tours is a family-run business operated by people who know the region intimately and love showing it off. DeLane Cates and Mary Hodges-Cates build the sea kayaks they use on their tours, using designs optimized for novice paddlers. They offer day and overnight trips on the Pend Oreille River, and day trips on Sullivan Lake and the Little Pend Oreille Lakes. They provide meals and start each trip with an orientation about the operation of the boats and boating safety. Contact them by phone: 509-446-2449 ; by email: info@boundarytours.com; on the Web: www.boundarytours.com; or by mail: P. O. Box 42, Metaline, WA 99152. Welcome to NortheasternWashington.com All rights reserved. Copyright 2008-2010.
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to Get There: Metaline Falls is the put-in for the river trip on the Pend
Oreille to Boundary Dam. Metaline Falls is the northeastern-most town
in Washington, located on Highway 31 about 10 miles south of the Canadian
border as the crow flies. Launch from the public boat ramp just north
of the bridge. The road to Boundary Dam, our take-out, begins just south
of Metaline Falls near the north end of the town of Metaline. Look for
the signs for Boundary Dam, Crawford State Park and Gardner Cave. This
road is called Boundary Road and winds north about 11 miles as the crow
flies through the forest at the base of Abercrombie Mountain. When you
get to the dam, follow the signs to the boat ramp.